Setenil de las Bodegas

We arrived early in the morning in Setenil de las Bodegas after a night with continuous thunderstorms. Once we arrived in this unique white village in Andalusia, the sun started to make a welcome appearance.

​The town, located in the province of Cadiz,is nestled deep within a canyon with many of the houses built within the rocks that overhang the streets. Where the town has been inhabited since prehistoric times, it's during the late Roman and Byzantine occupation the settlement gave structure to the urban layout of Setenil. However, it was during the time of the Nasrids that the Muslims created the settlement we see today.  


The first advise we will give you is to park your car outside the village and walk around it instead. The further you get into the heart of Setenil de las Bodegas, the narrower the streets become. And by the looks of the many dented cars that drive around the village, even the locals find it though to navigate through these streets.

What's special about the houses in Setenil de las Bodegas is that in contrast to other semi-troglodyte dwellings in Andalusia, the inhabitants didn't dig into the rocks, they merely sealed up the naturally-existing recesses.

Calle Jaboneria

The  houses in Calle the Jaboneria are all still inhabited. The caves/overhanging rocks with blackened ceilings were used as shelter as far back as prehistoric times. From this street, there are great views towards La Pena with the remains of the medieval fortress and the Iglesia Mayor.

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Calle Cuevas Del Sol

Probably the most photographed street in Setenil de la Bodegas. This narrow street located beside the river trejo is typical for the town. The houses are carved into the overhanging rock surface and many are now converted to bars or shops. It's an ideal place to watch the world go by from one of the many tables, most of them receiving sunshine for most of the day.
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 Calle Herreria

This is one of the oldest streets in the town. The houses on either side are adapted to the downward slope of the landscape and many of these houses are carved into the rocks.

An interesting building to visit is the Tourist office. It's located in Antigua Casa Consistorial, a rectangular building that was built in the 16th Century. The building is noteworthy because of its ceiling, a rich coffered ceiling with Mudejar tracery.

Climbing higher in the town, you will be rewarded with stunning views across the town. High above the town is Castillo de Setenil de las Bodegas , a ruined castle of which only the keep and the cistern is preserved. The cistern, which is located underneath the castle, consists out of two barrel vaults which are supported by two central pillars and three brick arches. The cistern was used to collect rainwater to supply the fortress.

In 1402 John II of Castile tried unsuccessfully to conquer the castle from the Muslims, and from that moment on the town was besieged seven times. The last of the sieges, on September 21, 1484, meant the victory of the Christian troops. The conquest of the town was fundamental for the Crown in its advance towards Granada.

Ermita de san Benito was originally an old mosque, its current configuration is from the late 19th Century and has an altar that houses the image of Padre Jesus Nazarena, the patron saint of the Brotherhood of the Blackheads and one of the most venerated sculptures in the town.

Cueva de la Sombra is another must see in the town. It looks like the houses are squashed by the huge overhanging rock above it. The rock together with the house underneath it form a tunnel for cars to drive through.  

Setenil de la Bodegas is worth a visit, and we highly recommend arriving early. In general, there aren't many tourists around yet and you can easily mingle with the locals while enjoying a coffee or some churros from Antonia.